Vintage Knitting, Retro Dressmaking, Make do and Mend, Original and Vintage Inspired Knitting Patterns, Vintage Inspired books
Showing posts with label stranded knitting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label stranded knitting. Show all posts

Saturday, November 21, 2015

My Shetland Adventure Continues

The last few weeks have been incredibly busy.  I’ve recently returned from a trip to Shetland and the beautiful island of Vaila, where I was working on further research and photoshoots for the Vintage Shetland Project book.


Arriving on Shetland - copyright Jeni Reid 2015

We had originally intended to stay a week, but this turned into just short of two, as gale force winds and high seas whipped up around Vaila preventing our departure. Our wonderful hosts, plentiful food and a huge amount of work to do meant our extended stay was in no way a hardship or a waste of time!

The stormy seas around Vaila
The limited hours of daylight at 60 degrees north latitude, caused a few challenges during the photoshoots.  However, the beautiful images captured on the visit were worth the horizontal rain and gale force winds.

Copyright Jeni Reid 2015
Here I am being held upright by the wind as we walked to the extreme western edge of the island for a very special view. Hidden inside her parka, is my daughter Charlie, who, along with her chap, Denis, accompanied us to Vaila. Charlie in her role as moving picture Director and Camera-Woman filmed behind the scenes, the photoshoot, and the incredible island of Vaila itself. This stunning footage will be edited together into a short film revealing a unique glimpse of our time on Vaila. Look out for further information of when the film will be available to view.

Denis was also with us for a very good reason, agreeing to be the primary male model in the book. Here he is somehow managing to look completely relaxed whilst surrounded by cameras. You may be aware of an additional photographer behind me in this shot and this is Jeni Reid, who took some amazing 'backstage' photos of the trip which will help decorate the book. 

Two days were also spent at the Shetland Museum Archive, where we set up a temporary studio to photograph each of the original museum pieces which are in the book. This was something I desperately wanted to be able to include in the book and thanks to the Crowd Funding campaign I have been able to do so.

Copyright Jeni Reid 2015
Exciting new research has revealed some crucial new stories and developments, which were previously unknown to me, but which are pivotal to the Vintage Shetland Project story and the completeness of the study as a whole. Whilst at the Museum, an additional garment came to light - the missing jigsaw piece in a way - that brings everything together and completes the collection. I felt it essential to include these new details. So this piece is now already being knitted and will be part of the final photoshoot.
This extra research, knitting and pattern writing is obviously going to take up more time so I have had to move the date of release to the Crowdfunders. All Crowdfunding books will still be sent out first with other pre-orders being sent out shortly afterwards. However for Crowdfunders this does mean that their books won't be despatched until early in 2016. If you are a Crowdfunder you should have been receiving regular newsletters about progress including one earlier this week telling you about this. If you've not been receiving your newsletters please check your spam box for emails from newsletter@susancrawfordvintage.com If there's nothing there either please let us know by contacting tracy@susancrawfordvintage.com 

You can also sign up for my regular newsletter by following the sign up link on my website. And don't forget you can still pre-order your very own copy of The Vintage Shetland Project here.
More news very soon, but

For now,
Susan xx

All images copyright Susan Crawford unless otherwise stated. Images not to be used without the written permission of the copyright holder.

Tuesday, November 03, 2015

A Glimpse Inside The Vintage Shetland Project

As many of you know, I'm currently working hard on bringing together my research, patterns, photography and history for The Vintage Shetland Project

This very special book is based on garments held in the collection at the Shetland Archives.  I've selected a number of items from the collection and have meticulously charted and recorded stitch counts and patterns, to enable me to recreate them and from this information create multi-sized knitting patterns.  My choice of pieces has not only been based on beauty, but also on the stories which they have each revealed. From the Suffragette Movement to WWII, prize winning knits to highly experimental work the book is proving to be incredibly rewarding and fascinating work. 

I've recently held a photoshoot for the book, on the island of Vaila which is off the West coast of Shetland and surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean.  It is a truly awe-inspiring and majestic location - but more of that later, first let me introduce you to some of the patterns that will be in the book and also give you a peek at some behind-the-scenes photos.

Here is my beautiful model, Ria, knocking at the door of Vaila Hall whilst wearing these beautiful pair of gloves featuring a Norwegian flower motif and knitted in organic Shetland wool produced from the sheep of Vaila.


Here I am hard at work, photographing Ria in the gardens of Vaila Hall. She is also wearing a stunning Aquascutum coat from the 1950s.


Here's a detailed shot of the mittens. Typically of the late 1940s/early 50s these mittens have extra long cuffs to ensure the gap between coat and hand is protected. These mittens are knitted in Jamieson & Smith 2ply jumper weight wool.


One of my absolute favourites is this amazing and highly unusual sleeveless pullover whose pattern and colours echo the rugged landscape and coast of Vaila. If you look to the horizon you can just see the island of Foula in the far distance.


The Vintage Shetland Project featuring 26 patterns, essays and histories is available for pre-order for only £25 (plus p&p). 

You can pre-order your copy here 

Please note that despatch will commence in early 2016.

The island of Vaila is a very special place, owned by Richard Rowland and his wife Dorota, accessible only by boat and home to Shetland sheep, ponies, seals and many, many sea birds.  Richard describes Vaila as a microcosm of all that is Shetland - incredible scenery, nature, space and peace.  I'm so very fortunate to be able to use the island as the backdrop for my book.


When you arrive on Vaila you feel you have stepped into a fairy tale - after all how many places do you know that has a watchtower at the bottom of the garden!

And so, my thoughts are turning to the next photoshoot for the book.  I'm now on my way back up to Shetland and then to Vaila.  I'm excited to see how the landscape has changed since I was there a few weeks ago and also very excited to see the newly prepared pieces in this stunning location!  Look out for more behind the scenes photos and shots of beautiful Vaila on my Instagram feed in the next few days.

For now,
Susan xx

Wednesday, October 14, 2015

Can you help me with some research?

I'm currently working away on the research for the Vintage Shetland Project and I wondered if you, dear reader, could help me with some of that research. One of the most striking of the garments in the Project is the 'Rose Cardigan' featuring a repeating flower/rose motif. This type of flower motif, usually accompanied by stem and foliage, seem to have been popular for a relatively short length of time in the late 1940s-early 1950s and I'm ploughing through my pattern archive trying to find as many examples of this type of motif as I can to date their arrival and demise.



Trimmed with Roses from A Stitch in Time Volume 2 is another example of these motifs, only the motif is bigger and uses a combination of stranded and  intarsia techniques to create it.



So how can you help? Do you have a vintage pattern or pattern book archive - particularly containing patterns published in the UK? I'm only looking for flower motifs from before the 1960s, I don't need any 1970s or 1980s examples. If so, could I ask you to take a flick through your patterns and see if you can find any examples of flower/rose motifs of this type. If you do find any could you scan the cover image, an image of the garment if different from the cover and the chart/instruction for the flower - I don't need the pattern otherwise, just the motif. If there are any other date references these would be very useful too. Please then email the information to susan@susancrawfordvintage.com

To say thank you let me know in your email any single PDF pattern of mine available on my ravelry pattern page you would like and I will send it to you via ravelry free of charge.

for now,
Susan xx


Thursday, February 05, 2015

Knitting in the Dordogne

A few months ago I received a very exciting email from the wonderful Jean Moss asking me if I would consider teaching on one of her knitting holidays in 2015.

In the Dordogne, France no less. I hesitated for approximately a mili-second and then, of course, said yes.

The holiday is based in the incredible 17th century Chateau Forge du Roy and takes place from the 19th to the 29th September 2015.


Isn't it beautiful? Residents of the holiday have exclusive use of the chateau and all its grounds and facilities - including swimming pool, sauna and more.

The ten day programme is packed full of trips, knitting and food. You can read the full itinerary on Jean's website here. I will be joining the group for three or four days and will be running two workshops. The first taking participants through the steps of knitting a pair of traditional Scandinavian stranded mittens and some of the history behind the motifs used.


The second workshop is an introduction to Shetland Lace Knitting and the participants get to knit a mini traditional Shetland lace shawl. The maths behind the shawl are clearly explained so that the knitters can then embark on a full size shawl like this one.



In addition to the two workshops I will also be giving a talk all about the Vintage Shetland Project which will be close to publication by this point and I will be able to share some pre-publication images and samples from the book.

Sadly I don't get to spend the entire 10 days with everyone else but I do get to visit the Augerge de Layotte for dinner with all the other guests. This restaurant is set deep in the nearby chestnut woods.  The following day we get to visit Perigueux and the Chateau Bourdeilles as well as historic Brantome where there are some unique cave paintings.


And this is just over a couple of days. There is so much to do and see over the 10 days as well as attend two workshops and a talk all from Jean.

And the really good news is that there are a few places left available - not many - but if you are wanting a special knitting holiday with a difference, with culture and sunshine and with me (you never know, someone might!) this might be the vacation for you. You can find all the details on Jean's website and maybe I'll see some of you there.

adieu,
Susan xx

Saturday, January 24, 2015

Holiday Knitting

I very rarely get the time or the opportunity to knit from other designer or brand patterns or to knit using yarn from other companies, so over the Christmas period each year I allow myself the luxury of choosing a pattern created by someone else and yarn from another label. The old excitement of deciding what to knit never fades and I spend a lot of time throughout the year planning my Christmas knit. On this occasion I had chosen both the pattern and obtained the yarn nearly a year ago and had patiently waited for Christmas week when I was allowed to cast on.

I have become very interested in Faroese patterns, wool and knitting history over the last couple of years so I decided that this year I would knit a Faroese design using Faroese wool. I am particularly fortunate that my wonderful friend Fiona is the co-owner of Island Wool who import Faroese wool to the UK. Fiona kindly allowed me to choose the yarn for any pattern I wanted to knit. Fiona also speaks Faroese and translates the patterns of Faroese yarn company, Navia, into English for them.



And so I chose Model 6 - Woman's jumper in Orange from Navia pattern book 17. This gorgeous pattern features an all-over traditional pattern on the lower body followed by a fabulous floral yoke. The body is knitted in the round from the bottom up, the sleeves are then also knitted in the round then all joined together so that the yoke can then also finally be knitted in the round.



The pattern uses Navia Duo, a pure wool blend of Faroese wool, Shetland wool and Australian lambswool. Navia is a family run business based in Toftir which is located on the island of Eysturoy. Navia use Faroese designers to create their supporting pattern range. The yarn is crisp yet soft, very warm and a pleasure to knit with. The Duo has a recommended tension of 22 sts to 10cm but is approximately a thick 4 ply weight. My pattern uses 4.5mm needles to obtain this gauge creating a reasonably loose tension ensuring your stranded knitting doesn't pull too tightly and gives the wool room to bloom when it is washed. Many Faroese designs are created in this way, deliberately creating a loosely knit fabric which will fill up when washed. Traditionally much Faroese knitwear was felted to provide a warmer, more hard wearing fabric which requires an open knit in the first instance.


I decided to stay true to the colour palette picked by designer, Malan Steinholm,  as it is the contemporary colour scheme that particularly appealed to me. The very strong orange did have me a bit nervous but I was prepared to give it a go.



Unfortunately the pattern only comes in three sizes with the largest size having a finished chest measurement of 37.5 inches (95cm). Even allowing for some negative ease this was too small for me. So a little bit of simple maths was needed to increase the circumference of the body to 42 inches (106.5cm) to accommodate my boobs. I then made the body the same length as the largest size. You can probably see I created a more fitted shape than on the model in the pattern book. This was deliberate as I really don't suit jumpers that cut across the top of my thighs. Likewise a neater fit seems to flatter me more than a loose one.


Above my boobs my upper body is quite small so on the very first row of the yoke I reduced the stitch count back to that of the pattern's largest size and was able to follow the pattern as written from there. I also reduced the length of the sleeves significantly as I have particularly short arms. I could actually have made them another 2 inches shorter in fact as I still need to turn the cuffs back!  Even though I had made the body wider, by virtue of shortening the arms I still only used 5 balls of Orange and 2 each of Navy Blue and Light Grey.

Moving onto the yoke itself there are only two rounds where 3 colours are used and these are very straight forward. Can you spot them?



The only change I made on the yoke was to cast off using a very stretchy cast off as the neck is quite tight otherwise.


 I am delighted with the finished results. The jumper fits me perfectly and the colour choice actually works. I know grey and navy both work on me, but the strong orange really was a bit of a shot in the dark. However I think it looks great. I don't think it would have worked next to my face but that is the skill of the designer, who has used the grey as the main colour on the yoke, keeping a distance between such a bold colour and the complexion. In my case red hair and usually rosy cheeks are probably not the ideal combination for orange but yes I think I've got away with it.



The pattern is translated excellently by Fiona but it is briefer than the patterns some of us have become used to and a little prior knowledge of knitting a yoked jumper in the round would probably be best if you would like to knit this jumper. I would think you would only need to have knitted one circular yoked jumper before to be able to cope comfortably but I think it would be advisable. Other than that it is a very easy pattern to follow, fits beautifully and is exactly what I hoped for. I will be wearing it an awful lot! I can't wait for next Christmas when I can knit another Faroese pattern.

for now,
Susan xx

Images taken by Gavin Crawford at Monkley Ghyll. Copyright Susan Crawford ©2015



Friday, December 12, 2014

Cecilia's Stranded Knitting Adventure

Last weekend I went on a lovely trip to see my good friend Cecilia, who lives high in the Cumbrian countryside. Cecilia is a spinner and hand dyer of the highest level and she has very kindly (or foolishly) been teaching me to spin. In return, she asked if I would help her improve her stranded knitting skills.

As well as both living on farms and being obsessed with wool and knitting, Cecilia and I have another thing in common. We were both supporters of our mutual friend,  Felicity Ford's 'Stranded Colourwork Sourcebook'.


Helping Cecilia to improve her stranded knitting skills seemed the perfect moment for us also to explore Felix's book and launch Cecilia into a project.

Before I arrived I had set Cecilia some homework based on Felix's book. She was to study her surroundings and choose something around her as the inspiration for her piece of stranded knitting. She was then also to extract the colours from this and create a colour palette from which she would knit.

As a hand dyer inspired by her environment on a daily basis, Cecilia decided to turn things on their heads somewhat and chose a skein of her beautiful hand dyed yarn as her inspiration. This in turn had been inspired by a view by the near by lake early this year. You can read more about Cecilia's processes in this interview on the Wovember blog in 2013.


 She then chose a selection of Jamieson & Smith 2 ply jumper weight Shetland wool that reflected the colours to be found in the skein.



Felix's book helps you to see the range of colours and patterns in everything around you and then shows you how to take those colours and patterns and turn them into beautiful samples of stranded knitting. I would recommend you looking at Felix's website at just some of the truly amazing images of completed works that people have sent to her.

Felix has herself been using a photo I had taken of my farm, Monkley Ghyll to create the most stunningly, rich swatch. Here it is in progress.


Here is the photo which Felix has used to create this incredible swatch.


And so, once colours had been identified, Cecilia took up her needles and set about learning to create stranded knitting. Sitting at her kitchen table we talked and drank tea oblivious to the day darkening outside; the only sound disturbing us that of Cecilia's two new Old England goats who have been relentlessly trying to escape since coming to live with her.

Initially awkward, the rhythm of working stranded knitting with a colour held in each hand began to make sense and Cecilia's speed and accuracy improved dramatically.  At the end of the day a small but perfectly formed swatch had begun to appear on her needles. Cecilia is going to continue with this and at our next meeting I will hopefully be able to share with you her completed project.


Felix's book is inspirational in the true sense of the word and yet also manages to be fabulously instructional as well, releasing often un-noticed patterns and colour combinations for us to use and admire.

If you haven't already got yourself a copy of the Stranded Colourwork Sourcebook I would highly recommend you do so. Take a walk, look at the everyday things around you and begin to create your own works of knitted art.

Felix's book can be purchased via her website here.





Sunday, April 27, 2014

The KNITSONIK Stranded Colourwork Sourcebook

My good friend, Felicity (Felix) Ford launched her Kickstarter campaign to write and publish The KNITSONIK Stranded Colourwork Sourcebook less than a month ago and I have the great honour of being the last blogger on her blog tour. The campaign is now fully funded but the best way to ensure you get a copy of what is going to be a truly amazing and inspirational book, is to pledge to the campaign before it closes later today.

There has been a marvellous blog tour going on over the month where Felix has answered many questions and already provided us with tantalising glimpses of what the book will be like. To sign off the tour, we had a wonderful email conversation about taking inspiration from what is all around us and naturally, our thoughts turned to my new home and how the sights that I now see every day could be turned into stranded colourwork. We are both planning to use these images to create a piece of stranded colourwork based on the images we have chosen, and later in the year, Felix and I will come back to the blog and share our creations!

So here is how our correspondence about textiles, place, wool and land went:

Felix: It's been amazing following your instagram feed and getting a sense of where you are living now. Exploring an everyday sense of place and finding ways to celebrate what is right around us is key to The KNITSONIK Stranded Colourwork Sourcebook, so it was really nice to think about what you might translate into stranded colourwork over there at Monkley Ghyll, and to look at the photos and think about some of the colours and shades in the landscape where you live.

I picked out from your instagram loads of daffodils and lambs... a very yellow, blue, green, white palette for spring!


I love how the filter you have used here emphasises the blue-ish green of the daffodil stems vs. the warmer grass green, and the little emerald spot on the lamb's fleece. Down here when Daffodils come it is a very welcome relief to the long dirge of the winter, and they really are a wonderfully buttery yellow! I could imagine playing with shading and different warm/cold greens working out of this image, and it would be interesting to play with the yellows and see how best to make them pop in the knitting like they do in this very spring time scene. I have been really enjoying exploring the greens of the Jamieson & Smith palette for The KNITSONIK Stranded Colourwork Sourcebook, and especially for the section I want to write that deals specifically with plants.

What astounds me is how differently greens behave whether beside purple - as in my sloes design - or yellow - as in my hops design!


The green and yellow parts in my knitting based around my favourite beer are to me reminiscent of the palette of your daffodils.


Susan: These particular daffodils are a very sharp, bright yellow as they appear in the photo so provide a very strong contrast to the almost flourescent grass around them. And with the darker green of the daffodil leaves as well as the grass and the holding mark on the lamb, there are at least 3 or 4 greens to play with, as well as the deepest grey/almost black depth of the shadows in the depths of the grasses and the foliage. With the natural shades of the lamb itself and the wooden post in the background you have a very classic 'Shetland' colour palette. I am amazed every morning how the colours in the landscape seem to alter and have noticed how when close up it contains a lot of quite sharp contrasts.

Felix: Yes - that selection of greens and the shadows in the depths of the foliage remind of a beautiful woven woollen blanket from the Karula Parish in Estonia, which plays with this similar palette in woven stripes.


This blanket is held in the Estonian National Museum collection, and I found it in a book produced by a wonderful group of women living in the Karula Parish in South Estonia. Several of these women - including Olivia Till and Lilian Freiburg - are married to farmers. They develop wool products from what is grown on their farms in a collective, independent organisation called "Maavillane". They produced this book exploring the historical textiles from the Parish of Karula, and - as part of their exploration of local heritage - made their own skirts in the shades of the Parish, from wool they grew. I wanted to show you this blanket, because I think the ethos of these amazing women, growing their own wool, living on the land, and exploring their textile heritage, is not far from your own.


Here are Olivia (left) and comrades, wearing outfits made from wool they have grown, in a landscape far different from the one you now live in.

Susan: I love this image. It has a 1920s/30s style to it. I have been looking at this period for inspiration for the perfect 'fashionable farming' outfit and this photograph has given me a lot of ideas!

Felix: Is this the view of your driveway? Are you going or coming home in this image? What strikes me are the found stripes in both the tyre tracks and the fence-posts along the side, and that pine tree looks like motifs I've seen in lots of Nordic knitting.


Susan: We were walking back down our driveway in this photo. Our house is the stone farmhouse with barns attached that you can see at the bottom of the drive. I wasn't even particularly conscious of the shadows caused by the fence posts when I took the photo but when I looked at it afterwards I immediately noticed them too. The walls and the gate posts all around the farm add straight lines to the undulating landscape dividing the expanse into sections that you can view separately or as part of the whole. Our pine tree is one of only two or three on the whole farm and it seems to really stand out at the bottom of the drive. Despite the driving winds that hit it, it has managed to achieve a remarkable amount of symmetry which is probably why its so reminiscent of the knitted tree motifs.

Felix: Yes, the tree is very upright and symmetrical. The combination of stripes, the striking tree, and the fresh greens really put me in mind of this ski-ing jacket from a Latvian knitting book I own, published in the 1950s. It could be wonderful to do something with the warm greys of your driveway intersecting with those bright shades and the pleasing geometry of the pines.





Susan: As you might imagine, I love this with all my heart! I have a number of images very similar to this one in vintage Norwegian books in my library. Another potential direction!



Felix: It feels like you've used a blue filter in the image below, but even so, it's amazing how the weather and the light change the colours of the view. Lilac and purple and russet in the one above and aqua and chocolate and blue in the one below.

Susan: It's interesting that you've picked out these two images. They show slightly different angles and at different distances of the vista across the Forest of Bowland - our farm is at the northern edge of the Forest (not actually a forest but a geographical area) and we look back at these hills in the Forest. The first image is one that I look at every day and the colours change every day but the hill in the distance - Clougha Pike - always has this purple, pink and lilac cast to it, except on very very grey cold days like the image below. The pike itself is to the right and out of shot at this angle, but it was taken early in the morning after a ground frost and the low lying clouds teamed with the white frost on the ground created a very unusual light. It was still quite dark so I have lifted the image so that the detail can be seen but most of it is due to the crazy light conditions.

It is suddenly such a different colour palette to the image above. I look at the pike every day to observe its changing moods!

Felix: In terms of translating these different views into stranded colourwork, I am reminded of stripes, and of a brilliant blog post on the Faroestrands blog that I saw on the idea of STRATA and with those Cyan blues and brown lilac shades in the bottom image, I think of Patty Knox's 1980s classic, "New Directions in Fair Isle knitting" and especially the Waves V neck pullover which stacks up strata or repeated lines and shades in a similar but far more limited palette.



Significant challenges when translating the landscape into stranded colourwork include dealing with the sense of distance, and the variety of textures. Knitting is a flat plane, where your huge and glorious vistas of mountains go back for miles, and knitting has a uniform textural surface. Even if you vary the types of stitches that you use, and the types of yarn involved, it's very difficult to emulate the way different surfaces in the landscape reflect the light. Often the contrasts in the landscape are produced by differences in texture and how light is reflected rather than in shades alone, and I love working out how to compensate for that in stranded colourwork. I was thinking a lot about this when working with my favourite old pair of socks, and the combination of the variegated yarns I used to knit them, and the landscape around Portland, near where Mark grew up. How do you create that sense of distance through shading? In this photo you can see my swatch, and the old, much-darned socks originally knitted in Lorna's Laces, Seashore colourway.


This is Portland. You can see how distance and the same sense of a view as in your photos have influenced the order of blues and other hues in my swatch.


Your landscape photos really make me think about transitions between shades, and how on earth to suggest the fade from distant hill to wandering stone wall, to matt green fields, to a dusting of snow...

In a totally different image, much less vista-ish and more close up, the red is so fresh and vibrant here on the chickens' combs against the bright greens and yellows of spring!


Susan: I couldn't quite believe this photo when I looked at it. The contrasts are all so sharp and clean and primary. The chickens have kindly been in prime condition since moving to the farm and are looking in gleaming good health and their combs reflect that. This would make quite a bold colour palette as each colour is so strong in its own right and yet as shown with this photo - it works! This photo also made me decide to only have black or white chickens as I love how they contrast to nature around them :)

Felix: It is so fresh and bright, and if you squint your eyes, there is a really nice sense of rhythm in this image, from the regular "beats" of the fence posts in the background, to the pops and bangs of the yellows and reds. The green is again very dominant, but in terms of thinking how I might take those vibrant colours and knit something representative of how they show up here, I want to show you this Latvian image from my 1950s book. A design like this which involves four colours per round on every third round would produce I think a fabric which would be quite bulky. Good for mitts to be worn in very cold climates, perhaps, but probably outside of the scope of The KNITSONIK Stranded Colourwork Sourcebook! Still, it's very nice to see how shades are organised into patterns here, reminiscent of your chickens in the daffs, with their bright red combs.

 
I also wanted to share how a palette very like your lovely instagram picture was used for a yoke in a 1970s knitting book I have called "Aran and Fair Isle Knitting". I think the similarities in shades are similar, though proportionally your chickens introduce far more white than there is in the yoke, here. Following what you say about black or white chickens, it would be amazing to see what would happen if the proportions in this design were stretched to accommodate how much white there is in your original photo, and/or swapped out for black to represent the high contrast chicken palette you imagine around your farm in the years to come!



And I love this slightly busted looking fence for its prosaic qualities, for the challenge it presents to the stranded colourwork knitter! How to wrest something pretty and delicate from a worn bit of fencing, but - look closer - there is a windowpane pattern in that wire, studying the barbed wires may even yet yield something interesting, and even the arrangement of the timber suggest an exciting geometric form that could be amplified across the surface of your knitting! 


Susan: I have always photographed broken, damaged, tumbling down, decaying things. I find them particularly beautiful but I agree completely that they are more of a challenge to find an obvious design within them as they have often lost their symmetry and can at first glance appear quite 'ugly'. I would love to see what you would make of this one. As you say, there are a whole number of aspects you could isolate and use in a design. Funnily enough on the surface the shape of the gate and the wire pattern within suggest a section of a lace repeat to me so it is more of a challenge to me too to see it as stranded knitting so this is the one that I think I really need your help with!
   
One of my favourite books picked up during my Estonian travels was written by the amazing craftswoman and artist, Tuuli Tubin. It documents mittens from Võromaa, Tuuli's home county. The book features lovely images of old mittens, interspersed with photos of the county in Winter. Like what we are doing here, it links place, landscape, textiles and heritage together, and reading through it creates lovely suggestions and connections between ideas.

Perhaps my favourite pairing in the book is a double spread which features a very graphic red and black mitten on the left hand side, and then a delicate print of some kind of plant umbel dried and dead and pressed in the deep snow. For me this pairing is genius - like your broken fence with its trailing wires, it makes links between the lines we find around us and the lines we plan when we design.



Felix: I have really enjoyed sharing some of my textile books and ideas about stranded colourwork with you here - I hope you and your readers have enjoyed it, too! I am not sure yet whether I will work with ALL of the ideas from this post for my giant Monkley Ghyll swatch, or just several, what about you? It will be nice to see what we both come up with in November when The KNITSONIK Stranded Colourwork Sourcebook comes out, and it's beautiful to be ending this blog tour with the prospect of some future knitting to come.

Susan: Its been a delight to share these images and ideas with you and I’m very, very excited to start on some colourwork ideas that are forming out of our conversation. I have particularly enjoyed how you have used so many books to inform your creative ideas, which is exactly how I approach the design process myself and as many of my books are still packed away in boxes it has been wonderful to dip into your library and get inspiration from them and from you. I for one, can’t wait for November when your book comes out and we all get the chance to share your creative processes with you. Thank you so much for stopping by the blog.

Felix: Thanks for having me x

You can find out more about Felix's work on her website and don’t forget you can contribute to Felix’s Kickstarter campaign and be sure of your copy of this truly inspirational book until the end of the day.

for now,
Ruby xx


Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Fair Isle Dilemma

I will soon be heading back to Shetland after quite a long absence to continue with my work on Vintage Shetland. This book will be looking at a selection of 20th Century knitted items in the Shetland Museum Archive. The items have no patterns so I am creating patterns from the source knitting, recreating the garment and multi sizing the pattern. There are a lot of other elements to the book including the story of each of the chosen items, but before I get to that point I need to narrow down my choices to just 20 items from the entire 20th Century archive! What a very very difficult choice to make. And this is where I need your help.

I have two quite similar cardigans both of which I love but which can't both make it into the book as they are just too close in too many ways. So, I'm going to leave it to the public to decide as they say. I'm going to share some photos of each cardigan with you and I would like you to tell me which you think should make it into the book and why. And to give an added incentive there will be a shetland yarn goodie bag for one reader that I will choose at random from all the comments. I'm going to set a closing date of 10th May so I know which of the two garments I'm investigating further when I'm back in Shetland but I won't draw a winner until I get back from Shetland at the end of May.

So without further ado hear are the two cardigans.

The first has no name and is in a very bad state of disrepair which is one of the things I like about it so much. Fortunately the holes don't interfere with reading the pattern. It has some style difference to many of the garments I've been looking at including a moss stitch button band an interestingly shaped neck line which you can see on this first photo. It also has slightly inset sleeves which I really like although the pattern doesn't join particularly well at the armholes, with an odd motif on the front bodies where they join the sleeve. What would appear to be the final buttonhole is very high for the neck shaping so may work but may not.

copyright Susan Crawford 2012
I really like the colours used in this garment and the repeat motif in red and blue is particularly charming. With it being so damaged it also appeals to me that I should save it before it fades away completely.

copyright Susan Crawford 2012
copyright Susan Crawford 2012
copyright Susan Crawford 2012
The second cardigan is in a much better state of repair with a more traditional neckline and crew neck. This cardigan has a more standard sleeve, armhole and neck construction but the chosen motifs and richness of colours are really beautiful and make it stand out as garment.

copyright Susan Crawford 2012
  copyright Susan Crawford 2012
You can see the really lush colours on this close up and the really effective use of very simple motifs. I really like the little chequer board at the commencement of the pattern too. This cardigan also has a moss stitch button band and overall is just beautifully knitted. This cardigan also has a matching scarf which I could include in the book too. Ooh, in addition to this I have already begun to read the pattern from this one.

copyright Susan Crawford 2012
So to summarize, I would like to know whether you prefer garment one or garment two and why. Personally I will admit to leaning towards garment one although I know it will involve more work than garment two but I will go with the decision of the majority.

So over to you....

for now
Ruby xx

EDIT: After realizing just how busy I'm going to be getting ready for our trip on the 10th, I am closing the competition today, 12 hours early. As previously mentioned I will pick a winner at random when I get back from Shetland. In the meantime I can safely say that the winning garment is Garment 1 - the item with no name - and this will now be included in the Vintage Shetland research and book.

Thank you all for taking the time to comment. 

Ruby xx