Vintage Knitting, Retro Dressmaking, Make do and Mend, Original and Vintage Inspired Knitting Patterns, Vintage Inspired books

Friday, March 21, 2008

Vintage Textiles

With the last post being so wordy, this post is going to be mainly visual. From a completed projects point of view I don't have much I can share right now. However, a couple of days ago I went to a Vintage Fashion and Textiles fair in Liverpool and had, after having several button crisis' recently, given myself a button budget to have a stock up. I've found lately that all I seem to have are odd buttons, mainly as I always buy an extra button in case I lose one, so keep getting left with single buttons.

The fair was great for button buying; I bought predominantly vintage including a gorgeous bakalite belt buckle. I also found some great vintage patterns which seem intact - you can never be quite sure but I can usually make the missing pieces up.

Here we go...

wheelbuttons

redbuttons

redbuckle

greendecobuttons

Photobucket

/glassflowers

glassbuttons

flowerybuttons

brownbuttons

blackbuttons

artdecobuttons

buttonbags2

These are just bags of allsorts of mixed buttons but are so useful to have.

pattern2

pattern1

pattern3

I also found these two needlework magazines - I love the knitting projects in both of them, but I think I like the blue cabled cardigan best, or do I? Oh, I don't know they're both lovely.

needlework2

needlework1

Hope everyone has a lovely Easter

for now
Ruby xx

Monday, March 10, 2008

RSI

I have finally found hidden amongst my computer files the information I collected about RSI for a college course I was teaching a couple of years ago. I had promised to forward the information to a number of people who asked for it and I will do my best to find the appropriate emails and do so, but in the meantime here it is. I hope it is of use to fellow RSI sufferers

We all hear and talk about RSI but exactly what as knitters are we vunerable to?

The chief forms of RSI which affect knitters are:

Carpal tunnel syndrome
Tennis elbow
Golfers elbow
de Quervain’s disease
Trigger finger
Cubital tunnel syndrome

What is RSI? It is classified as a neurovascular syndrome and is identified as chronic or prolonged pain in the hands, shoulders, back or neck, caused by the constant repetition of a series of movements. Its onset can be insidious, its diagnosis problematic and its results irreversible.

It affects the soft tissues, nerves, tendons, muscle and cartilage. If left untreated, it can lead to permanent disability.

The truth is, that as knitters, we spend hours repeating a small number of motions, so therefore are at risk of RSI; as is anyone who sews, crochets, plays a musical instrument or works on a computer.

RSI develops over time and its symptoms often come on gradually. Once you become aware of the symptoms there is another catch. Diagnosing RSI is difficult.
Therefore we needs defensive tactics whether already a sufferer or just a concerned knitter.

You can do many things to keep your symptoms in check or to prevent RSI.

TAKE FREQUENT BREAKS. PUT DOWN YOUR NEEDLES AND FLEX YOUR HANDS, FINGERS, WRISTS, SHOULDERS.

AVOID MARATHON KNITTING SESSIONS.

WARM UP! STRETCH YOUR HANDS BEFORE YOU KNIT.

Knitters can be at risk the moment they sit down. Many of us slouch, shoulders drooping and head bowed. Manipulating the needles forces the hands and elbows into an unnatural fixed position for long periods of time. The wrists are flexed up, stretching the tendons. The fingers and thumb exert pressure to hold needles and yarn. Passing the yarn over the needle involves repeated finger movements and the weight of the work in progress also drags on the wrists. Over time the rhythmic sequence of knitting and purling can pinch nerves and other soft tissues.

Sitting properly can spare your aching hands. The back supports your entire body, and proper spinal alignment is needed. Sit up straight without hunching your shoulders and neck. Your feet should be squarely planted with legs bent at a right angle – NOT CROSSED. Keep your elbows close to the body, bent at a comfortable angle, not sticking out from the body. Hold needles in your hands, not tucked under your arms – causes shoulder problems.

There is no correct or wrong way to grip the needles but try not to bend the wrist back too much. Circular needles are better than straights as they spread the weight of the knitting and wooden are better than metal or plastic as they flex with the hand rather than resist.

If you are having problems thicker needles are better than thin as you are not gripping as tightly. With crochet hooks you can make a handle out of sponge rollers to prevent you having to grip the hook so tightly.

In addition tight knitters put extra strain on their hands, so try and loosen up and relax your tension slightly – use a bigger needle.

CARPAL TUNNEL SYNDROME

CTS is probably the best known RSI. More than 8 million Americans alone have this condition in which the hands’ median nerve is trapped inside the carpal (wrist) tunnel. This cavity is formed by the transverse carpal ligament, an elastic tissue that surrounds the eight bones in the wrist. When repetitive movements irritate the slippery protective lining of the flexor tendons, they become swollen inside the carpal tunnel, compressing the median nerve. This leads to pain, tingling, loss of strength and reduced range of motion.

CUBITAL TUNNEL SYNDROME

Also know as Ulnar Neuropathy. Caused by leaning on elbows, holding the telephone, knitting, typing – anything that requires repeated bending and straightening of the elbow. This can lead to inflammation of the ulnar nerve, which travels from the neck to the elbow then to the fingers. Symptoms are similar to CTS except the pain is felt in the ring and little fingers.



GOLFERS ELBOW

Also known as Epicondylitis, results in small ruptures in muscles and tendons located in the inside of the elbow. The muscles and tendons that bend the wrist start in this region. Wrist and hand movements create small tears and scarring in the muscle and tendon fibres. Symtoms are the same as tennis elbow but felt on the inside of the elbow. Tennis elbow is felt on the outside of the elbow, travelling down the forearm to the middle and ring fingers. Bending the wrist back or turning the palm upwards makes it more painful.

TRIGGER FINGER

This is a condition where an irritated tendon cannot slide easily through a cavity. A knot forms blocking the space leaving the finger bent.


GENTLE WARM UP EXERCISES

Warm up soaks and stretches

Perform the stretches in a basin large enough for you to immerse your hand, forearm and elbow. The water should be as hot as you can stand.

Finger stretch: Stretch out your fingers as wide as you can and hold for a slow count of 10 to 20 seconds. Bend your fingers and hold for a count of 5. Repeat up to 10 times.

Wrist stretch 1: Pull your hand backwards gently with your fingers and hold for a slow count of 10. Repeat with the other hand.

Wrist stretch 2: Make a fist. With your other hand, push down on the fist and flex it forwards towards the wrist. Hold for a slow count of 10. Repeat with the other hand.

Quick stretches during the day

Wrist tendon stretch

Place your hands together in the prayer position. Raise your elbows out to the side, keeping the palms together. Spread your fingers wide and bring them together again, slowly, five times. Repeat.

Chin tuck

Good for in a car with a headrest, or lying down with a cushion under your head. Tuck your chin down toward your chest and push your head against the headrest or cushion. Hold for a count of twenty then relax. Repeat 3 times.

Shoulder shrugs

Stand or sit up straight. Shrug your shoulders as high and tight as you can and hold for 10. Relax. Repeat 3 times. Then shrug your shoulders back as far as you can and hold for 10. Relax. Repeat 3 times.


AND FINALLY, THE DONT’S

Don’t keep wrists bent towards you for long periods.(flexion) as irritates the nerves and tendons in the wrist.

Don’t tilt your hand in the direction of the little finger(Ulnar deviation)
this position folds the tendons over the wrist bone putting needle strain on the tendons.

Don’t grip or grasp an object for long periods of time. This contracts forearm muscles, pull tendons and creates pressure and rubbing in the carpal tunnel.

Don’t pinch (grasping with only the fingers) – causes additional pressure in the carpal tunnel.

Don’t keep elbows bent forward (as in at a keyboard) for long periods – causes compression of the nerves causing irritation.

Don’t slouch.

Don’t lean over your work. Strains neck and shoulders. Also can impinge on nerve roots.

Don’t keep your arms in a work position for a long period of time, the constant stress of supporting the weight of your arms and your work can irritate the shoulder.

This information has been gathered from various sources, however I can't as yet find the file with the bibliography but will edit the post when I track it down.

off to do my stretches,
for now
Ruby xx

Thursday, March 06, 2008

Download Available!

I'm feeling very pleased with myself. I somehow managed to actually follow instructions and use Ravelry's download pattern facility for my Tippet.

tippet pattern

Please excuse the image being in black and white - not quite sure what I did wrong then when I made the jpeg copy. The actual download is in colour. And I've managed to add it to the side bar of my blog! Actually its all down to Gudrun, who gave me excellent instructions on what to do. I would have been lost without her. Thank you Gudrun. Ravelry provide figures of the number of downloads and since 10pm last night 31 people had downloaded my Tippet pattern. I find that quite amazing. Before the internet, and before Ravelry, would that have happened? I doubt it.

My aches and pains were getting to me yesterday, so to cheer myself up I placed a 'little' order with yarnmarket. I ordered the second Loop d Loop book from Teva Durham/Stacey Charles.

loop d loop

I loved the first book in this series and a good while ago, bought some of Teva's Moss yarn for a project from the book, but this is still in my to do pile. I also ordered Norah Gaughan/Berroco book 2 - again loved the first book, bought yarn.... you know how it goes.

norah gaughan

Then to make the postage worthwhile a pack of the new Berroco yarn, Seduce in this wonderful sexy and indeed, seductive jewel colour

seduce

and 6 balls of Twinkle 'Soft Chunky' in peach with a tension of 6sts to 4 inches. Not quite sure why but just have an urge that I need to follow.

I love the colour of the Seduce yarn and it looks a really interesting yarn. The write up on yarn market says the following:

Crafted with fine Italian craftsmanship in a corded, slightly nubby strand, "Seduce" helps you knit & crochet a light, lustrous, breathable fabric with little effort. We especially enjoy the way each of the fibers absorbs the dye at different rates for a luscious tone-on-tone sheen. Beautifully spun of 47% rayon, 25% linen, 17% silk & 11% nylon.

Hope its as good as it sounds.

Other than that, its one of those posts, with secret knitting projects that can't be revealed or talked about. With losing so much of last week through my neck related problems I really feel up against it at the moment. I have a number of garments to get done for the knitonthenet photoshoot and the patterns finished so they can be uploaded ready for the March issue coming out on 22nd. (I think its going to be announced today so I'm ok saying the date). I'm really pleased with my designs for this issue and desperately want to make sure they are all ready on time.

I've also been working on A Stitch in Time, which again is top secret, but I can say its looking fantastic. Every garment that's been knitted up I want. Knitwear design in the 1930's and 1940's was so beautiful, with such attention to detail and exquisite finishing touches. Working on the book is definately influencing my designing and really emphasises how much there is always to learn. A project I've been looking at has little crocheted buttons that you stuff with cotton wool, or old 'nylons' or oddments of leftover yarn from your project so you have yarn left to darn with that has been washed along with the sweater and will therefore look the same when darned in!

To paraphrase Eliza Doolittle, 'I want to knit all day, I want to knit all day, I want to knit, knit, kniiiiiiit all day!'

for now
Ruby xxx

Thursday, February 28, 2008

Necks

Why necks? Well for two reasons. The first is why I haven't blogged for a week. My neck, my dammed annoying neck. Part of my long term reoccuring mobility problems are due to two of the vertebrae being partially fused together and having a fondness to pop out of joint. Tension in my neck caused by this happening at the weekend caused my shoulder to dislocate, the muscles in my thorax to twist and my hip to pop out too! All this has meant repeated visits to the therapist and no knitting or computing. I've got my last visit this morning to put the neck and finally the hip back in. However, enough of the moaning. I really only wanted to tell you yet another saga about the neck so you would understand my absence (shouldn't be here now - but don't tell anyone!)

The second reason to focus on necks is that last week I made my own version of a Tippet (a neck warmer). I took the basic stitch pattern from the 1880 Ladies Knitting Book and 'filled' the instructions out somewhat, and in view of the ice still on the ground I thought I would share the pattern here.

Ruby's Tippet


tippet1


Materials

Two balls Noro Silk Garden
I Large button
1 pair 5mm needles

Pattern

Cast on 39sts using 5mm needles

1st Row: *yfwd, SL1, K2tog, rep from * to end of row.
Repeat this row throughout.

tippet2

This one row pattern gives a very nice exaggerated rib effect but much more textural than a normal rib.

Work without shaping until tippet measures 54 cm (21.5inches)

Work buttonhole as follows:

1st row(RS): work 6 patt reps., K2, Cast off first st., K1, cast off 1,
yfwd k2tog., patt to end.

2nd row: Patt to last st before cast off sts., K1, turn, cast on 3sts,
bringing yfwd between last 2 cast on sts., turn, K1, yfwd, K2tog, patt to end.

3rd row: Work 6 patt reps., K1, yfwd, (K2tog)twice, work 6 patt reps to end.

Now work a further 26 rows in patt.
Cast off.
Darn in ends. Sew on button.

Tippet3

Copyright Justcallmeruby@2008

I will try and get some professional photos done at the knitonthenet shoot in a couple of weeks as I don't really think the photos here do it justice.

Unfortunately, I can't find the camera card with the photos of my 40's hair do at
present. My beloved has put it somewhere safe, but as soon as I find it I will put them up.

And finally, last year the lovely Susie Hewer, ran a series of marathons culminating in her entering the Guiness Book of Records for knitting the longest scarf whilst running a marathon.

susiehewer

This is her after the race last year.

Susie did all this on behalf of the Alzheimer's Research Trust. Susie has just announced she's doing it again, and is going to try and beat her record.

You can find out all about it here.

P.S. Susie's also a redhead!

for now
Ruby xx

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

A is for ...

Alpaca.

To be precise, Blue Sky Alpacas. I finally took delivery of the pattern I have been waiting for

30's gown

It still doesn't seem to be available anywhere in the UK, so in the end I ordered it from Purl in New York. It only took about 5 days and it was here. But obviously, to make ordering from New York worthwhile I ordered a few more which include

crochet sweater

this gorgeous crochet sweater in Suri merino

and

fitted jacket

the equally lovely fitted jacket in Bulky Naturals.

I've long wanted these two patterns aswell so am very pleased. The 1940's gown is in Alpaca Silk which is one of my favourite yarns. I used it recently to knit 'something' for the forthcoming 'A Stitch in Time' book and saw it and many other lovely things get photographed for preliminary publicity at the weekend. I can't say any more on that front but wow, wow, wow. I just can't wait to see it. My friend, Theo, of the Shellac Sisters was one of the models. You will also be able to see her modelling a design of mine in the next issue of knitonthenet. The other model is Fleur de Guerre, who is a professional 1940's model. Which brings me to

B is for....
Butterflies

At the end of a very long days photography, Fleur agreed to pose in my butterfly dress to finally get some professional photos for the website in waiting. I am just delighted with the photos. Fleur just looks fantastic. She even managed to look beautiful and poised standing in shoes that were TWO sizes too small for her. What a Star!

butterfly1

butterfly2

butterfly3

butterfly4

Beautiful.

Hair was done on the day by the wonderful, talented, funny, warm Nina of Nina's Hair Parlour. She is the best hairdresser on the planet. She even put my hair up in a 40's rolled style which I'll show photos of in the next blog. It was so complicated and she did it in ten minutes, and it stayed in all day. Genius. I struggle to even tie my hair back successfully! I love Nina.

so finally

C is for ....
Claudette Colbert

claudette

We all need a muse and she is mine. Not only is she beautiful but she was a woman very much in control in an era and a business where not normally so. She became at one point the highest paid actress in hollywood and even dictated how she was photographed. The caption on the photo is inaccurate. She was actually born in 1903 and died in 1996. One of the most fascinating things about her I think, was that she was cast in Bette Davis' role in All About Eve then fell and badly hurt her back. Bette Davis' then got the part. Life is full of twists.

The photo is from Hollywood Knits by Bill Gibb, published in the 1980s but unfortunately out of print now. It features publicity shots of hollywood stars in knitwear and Bill Gibb has then created knitting patterns from the photos. The garment Claudette is wearing is high on my list of to do's. And if I think Claudette would be happy to wear a garment I have designed I'll be very happy.

for now
Ruby xx

Saturday, February 16, 2008

Prom success and my valentine's present

It was indeed a successful trip to Manchester with my daughter. We bought her prom dress relatively quickly - it was the second dress she tried on - she went back to it after trying on seven more! But the decision was certain and unchangeable which is what I wanted to hear. Prevarication was not on the menu. I'm not going to reveal anymore at this point but save the reveal for May when she is all ready to go.

I finally got a chance to scan in the cover of my wonderful valentine's present. It is this book

ladies knitting book

I don't know whether the page below can be read clearly but it was published in 1880. This is the earliest knitting book I have.

knitting book insert

and contains two hundred and sixteen RECEIPTS (or patterns to us. I don't actually know why they were called receipts - does anyone else know?)

What I really love is it is signed presumably by the owner on January 30th 1881.
There are very few pictures but patterns for things such as a gentleman's muffatee and an opera cloak - you would have to be very brave to embark on knitting a cloak without even a picture to see whether you like it or not. There is also a pattern for a Tippet, which goes as follows:

"Useful little presents to poor children or as school rewards and can be made in the following way:

Take any soft wool (scarlet or any bright colour) and cast on about 27sts, using coarse wooden pins, not finer than size 2. Then wool forward, slip 1, knit 2 together. Knit every row alike.
Knit till long enough and cast off.

They can either tie round the throat, or fasten with a button or elastic. They are warm and quickly made".

I do love the way the patterns aren't prescriptive, just a guide really, and leave the knitter to find their own way to a great extent. There are other guides in the book, such as what to do if you have plump arms and a pattern for a 'Scotch Cap for pence'.

I think I shall make myself a Tippet but I'm not so sure about the Scotch Cap.

for now
Ruby xx

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

The Internet and Prom Dresses

I have struggled for the last two or three days without proper internet access. Our router decided to die and left me unable to get onto the internet without having to go round to other people's houses and borrow their computers. A new router has now arrived and my beloved worked into the early hours of this morning to get it fixed. Unfortunately I'll have to wait until tonight before I can use it. So this will have to be a photo-less post. My apologies.

It is the half term holidays at the schools here, and my daughter and I, are going to Manchester on the train, later today, to look for her prom dress. Her school prom is not until May but most of her friends have already got their dresses, so its panic stations now. We're looking for something vintage, an original 50's/early 60's ballerina length dress. We think. My daughter is the most undecisive, changeable shopper on the planet. Takes all day to buy one thing - not like her mother at all. So I'm not expecting this to be easy. If we do get a dress, we've then got to tackle the shoe issue. She hates buying shoes. Has the tiniest feet imaginable yet insists all shoes make her feet look big. I'm five inches taller, three shoes sizer bigger and several stone heavier - she should worry!

There is a great place called Affleck's Palace, which is an old building crammed full of small stalls, lots of small businesses selling vintage clothes, hand made clothes, jewellery etc. Like a real life etsy, except they have been trading since the 1980's if not before. This is the ethos from their website:

"We are an independent enterprise, for the independent entrepreneur, existing amongst the wilderness of multiples hiding behind their 'dog eat dog' corporate facades which boringly blight our city centres.

The objective is now and always has been to encourage an exciting interesting place, which in our modest way would be something more than just a shopping centre based entirely on commercial interests.

The very essence of this business was started on the principle of youth culture in all its extremes, and letting people 'do their own thing' to achieve this objective. We try our best to nurture our fledgling entrepreneurs , and watch them fly!".

I really admire this attitude. It is so important for talented people who haven't got a fortune or an angel or a very understanding bank manager to have a way of getting their product out there. The building may be a little rough around the edges and there may be a lot of 'youths' there, but if you're in Manchester, give it a go.

I have been very busy on the knitting front but all for knitonthenet and A Stitch in Time. We are in the process of getting patterns and yarn packages together to send to all the knitters who have kindly volunteered to help. The first promotional photographs are being taken at the weekend - but more of that later.

for now
Ruby xx

Thursday, February 07, 2008

Lovely lovely books

Its been a very busy week with very little time for blogging or, unfortunately, even for knitting. However, the post I've been waiting to do is about my trip to our local antiquarian bookshop. It is situated on the balcony of a wonderful victorian arcade and has all the atmosphere and charm you would expect, even down to a special reading room that only invited customers are allowed into. (More on this later)

I made several purchases the first of which is the Patons Story of HandKnitting

patons

It was written back in 1985 so the 'current' knitting trends are somewhat dated, but the historical side of british handknitting is fascinating. On the back cover is a picture from an early Patons publication which I'm very fortunate to own, but more importantly, its how I imagine myself and my life to be when I'm knitting.

Patons lady

I'm afraid I don't often seem to experience such serenity, but I keep on hoping!

The second book I purchased is one of the Batsford series, which I now have a fair few of. This one is the Complete book of Traditional Knitting by Rae Compton

batsford

This book looks at traditional knitting patterns from Shetland, Fairisle, Aran, Iceland, Sweden, Central Europe - the list goes on. A very interesting book.

The third book I bought is this one

weldons

and it is glorious. 860 pages of techniques from 'faggoting' to 'punch work', which both sound like something which used to happen in victorian taverns to solitary sailors on their way home!

The illustrations, such as this one, are beautifully executed

knitting

I think these instructions on sewing a collar are brilliant

collar

Such detailed explanations and so clearly illustrated.

I love this page on how to swiss darn

swiss darn

Each picture is a little work of art.

I did get to go in the special reading room to pick two books for my valentine's present. I haven't been allowed to have them yet, so I will have to reveal them after February 14th. But the room was wonderful, there was an emormous leather club armchair in front of a cast iron fireplace and mahogany bookshelves from floor to ceiling. There were the most beautiful volumes of children's stories which I was also very tempted by, but even my man has his limits, so I chose my two special books and left the magical room behind. It almost felt that if you looked behind you, it wouldn't be there anymore.

Finally, back to my Patons story of handknitting book. The inside cover has these two fantastic illustrations of shade cards from the original Patons range.

beehive

Patons shades

some of the yarn names sound incredible, like Lady Betty Fleecy, Petticoat Fingering (ooh er missus!) and Pomeranian. In the Beehive Scotch fingering there are 132 colours available in 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 ply. Heaven!

for now
Ruby xx

Friday, February 01, 2008

The snow is falling heavily and people are throwing snow balls but in my heart I'm thinking of spring and the chance to wear beautiful summer dresses.

gaultier

This fabulous crocheted dress from John Paul Gaultier caught my eye when my March Vogue dropped through the letter box this morning. Wouldn't wear the hat but the dress is wonderful. I love the crocheted JPG built into the fabric.

Here comes summer?

for now
Ruby xx

Monday, January 28, 2008

Revontuli finished at last!

Revontuli

Well, nearly. I haven't blocked her, but isn't she beautiful.

Revontuli two

I've said it before but I'll say it again this pattern was an absolute joy to knit. It made such absolute sense. And the yarn is fantastic. I only used one skein. If I had had the time I would have liked to carry on working more increases and making it larger again. But at least this way I still have another skein of Evilla to use elsewhere.

I got carried away taking 'arty' photos so please humour me.

close

Close

close2

Closer

close3

Too close?

Happy times

for now
Ruby xx